Eight years ago, when my home was undergoing major renovations, I found myself with some knotty
cleaning questions. I couldn't find effective information for removing many stains or getting all the different
surfaces of my home as clean as I wanted.
For answers, I consulted manufacturers, private businesses and craftsmen around the country. Here is what
I learned...
KITCHENS
Sweeping: Use a broom with even nylon or synthetic bristles. It collects dirt better than corn brooms.
Start sweeping at the walls, and move dirt toward the center so you push it the shortest distance. Don't lift the
broom high off the floor after a stroke -- this flings dirt into the air.
Store brooms with the bristles up. Otherwise bristles break or bend.
Coffee or tea stains on china, plastic and glassware: Mix one-eighth cup of regular chlorine bleach with one
cup of water. Pour into the bottom of your dishwasher before starting the wash cycle.
Important: Make sure nothing aluminum or silver is in the machine -- it can become discolored.
BATHROOMS
Hardened soap scum on tiles: Coat the entire surface with undiluted liquid detergent, and allow it to dry
overnight. Wet the surface and scrub with a stiff brush and scouring powder. Rinse and buff with a bath towel.
Nonslip treads on bathtub floor: Try Naval Jelly or KRC-7, a porcelain and tile cleaner (both available at
plumbing supply stores). These cleaners may remove mineral stains without eating away at the treads.
Rust around faucets and fixtures: Use a powder containing oxalic acid, such as Barkeeper's Friend or Zud
(both available at hardware stores).
Important: Never mix these rust removers with chlorine bleach. The fumes are toxic.
Concentrate on the spots where fingerprints accumulate -- if you want to disinfect your bathroom in addition
to just cleaning it.
Examples: Toilet handles, light switches and knobs on the shower door, medicine cabinet and door.
FURNITURE
Water rings on hardwood surfaces: Try mildly abrasive substances, such as mayonnaise mixed with a bit of
ashes or toothpaste. The secret is to rub gently for a long time -- as long as 45 minutes -- so you remove the
stain without scratching the finish.
Afterward, wax the whole surface to even the finish. Use paste wax (sold at home centers and hardware
stores). It is more protective than oils or liquid waxes.
Minor scratches on wood: I use Old English Scratch Guard (sold at hardware stores). If in doubt about which
color to use, start with a lighter color. Apply the product to your wiping cloth, not directly on the furniture.
Use the right dust rag: Soft white flannel or cheesecloth is best because dust adheres to it so well. Dampen
the cloth very slightly with water. For heirlooms and valuable antique woods, use distilled water to dampen
rags. For carved furniture, china, ceramics, chandeliers and vases, use a small artist's paintbrush made
from natural- or hog's-hair bristles.
UPHOLSTERY
Stains from eggs, milk, chocolate: Rub with a solution of one tablespoon household ammonia and one-half
cup of water.
Coffee, cola and beer stains: Rub with a solution of one-third cup of white vinegar mixed with two-thirds cup
of water. Avoid soap, which can set the stain permanently.
Ink stains: Sponge with rubbing alcohol.
WALLS
Nonwashable wallpaper: For grease stains, place an absorbent towel over the stain and cover it with an iron
set at low for several seconds. For ink or pencil marks, try rubbing with cleaning putty such as Absorene
(available at home centers) or a wadded-up piece of fresh, soft, white bread.
Washable vinyl wallpaper: For stubborn stains, such as crayon, tar or adhesives, use WD-40 (available in
hardware stores).
Painted walls: Mix a thick paste of baking soda and water. Dip your cloth in it, and rub marks very gently to
remove fingerprints, crayon, etc.
CARPETS
Spills: Use as little water as possible. Blot as much of the spill as possible with paper towels. Then, in a
bowl, whip up a sudsy foam using water and mild detergent. For delicate carpets, I use Orvus WA paste from
Procter & Gamble (available at antique stores, or call 513-983-1100).
Dip your brush into the foam, not the water. Brush stain lightly, then wipe off excess foam with a clean cloth.
Rinse with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. Then rinse with plain warm water. Blot thoroughly.
Use a vacuum with low dust emissions: If you have asthma or other allergies, consider investing in a vacuum
with a HEPA filter -- I use the Miele White Pearl ($699/800-694-4868).
WOOD FLOORS
Scuffs and heel marks on hard-finish or urethane-type floors: Dampen a cloth with a small amount of mineral
spirits (available at hardware stores). Rub gently in the direction of the grain.
Oil or grease stains on natural-finish floors: Saturate a cotton ball with hydrogen peroxide, and place over the
stain for several minutes. Saturate a second cotton ball with ammonia, and place over the stain for several
minutes. Repeat until the stain is removed. Let the area dry, then buff with a soft cloth.
COMPUTERS
Keyboards: Try rubbing alcohol or degreaser sprays (available at electronics stores) to clean off the grime.
Computer screens: Make sure screen is off. Use a slightly damp cloth. Avoid those special-purpose
towelettes sold in office-supply stores. They leave a soapy residue.
Most Effective Ways to Clean Your Home
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